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Welcome to Grub Street’s rundown of restaurant recommendations that aims to answer the endlessly recurring question: Where should we go? These are the spots that our food team thinks everyone should visit for any reason (a new chef, the arrival of an exciting dish, or maybe there’s an opening that’s flown too far under the radar). This month: a must-order salad in Chinatown, some scene-y new Greek, and a welcome substitute for those nights when you just want to celebrate at a steakhouse but crave something a bit more interesting.

Cafe Bar J.F. (Williamsburg)
The wedge of a space that last housed the Peruvian-focused Llama Inn is now this more broadly South American spot from the same team. On a recent night, the setting sun streamed in through the oversize windows and the staff happily answered questions about the daily specials, the wine list, and a menu divided into “snacks & starters,” “slightly larger,” “principales,” and “sides” sections. Celery salad is crisp and refreshing and given some heft with Chinese pine nuts. Arroz meloso — like a Spanish risotto — is equally nice as is the tonka-bean-flecked cream that sits atop Cafe Bar J.F.’s tres leches cake. — Shay Cohen

Selene (Soho)
When you don’t want to go to midtown for big-box Greek, and you don’t want to dodge the Dimes Square hangers on at Kiki’s, Selene is a nice, still-somewhat-secret alternative, hiding on the second floor of the Modernhaus hotel. The beachy space is just right for summer, and the classics — horitaki salad that doesn’t skimp on the feta, bright-orange ktipiti with oil-slicked pita — are well tuned while grilled seafood including red snapper or lobster carry the slightest hint of char. The best surprise of all may be the bread, a generous basket of flour-dusted horiatiko psomi that reminded me of the Greektown restaurants I went to while growing up in Chicago, which is served, unusually in this day and age, on the house. — Zach Schiffman 

Kidilum (Flatiron)
India’s many regional cuisines are too often lumped under one generic heading — “Indian” — which even still mostly conjures “butter chicken” to many people. But the past few years have seen an explosion in excellent region-specific restaurants. Kidilum, which opened a few months ago in the former Bouley at Home space, dives into the coastal cuisine of Kerala, on the southwestern coast, known as the “spice garden” of India. Kidilum means something along the lines of “beyond awesome” in Malayalam, a local language, and “beyond” is a good approximation for the vibe inside. The Bouleyan neutrals have been replaced by fiery reds, oranges, and leafy greens — hot lights, giant fronds, and gold accents. As you’d expect, chef Vinu Raveendran’s cooking emphasizes seafood and tropical accents; I loved giant prawns roasted under a thick masala of turmeric and tomato in banana leaves and a whole crab turned sweetly nutty in a dark-roasted coconut nandu curry. Ask for a tour of the spice room downstairs, with vials of barks, berries, herbs, and peppercorns. If you’re lucky, you’ll be sent home with a squeeze bottle of homemade hot sauce and a little jar of lemon pickle. — Matthew Schneier

Oriana (Nolita)
It’s midtown on Mott Street: The long, wood-clad, auburn-leather–adorned bifurcated space feels unusually large and luxurious for a downtown restaurant, but it’s a fitting showcase for chef Andy Quinn’s ambitious, wood-fired cooking. Settle in among the curious regulars from the group’s first restaurant, the Noortwyck, and relax. The food is more creative than anything that’s sold at even the most nouveau “steakhouse,” but the move is to treat this restaurant the same way: an opportunity for occasion dining. Start with stuffed morels over creamy grits or a thin sheet of bluefin tuna draped over rhubarb and anchovy. Move onto the big stuff: pork chops, chicken, thick slices of hanger steak, or whole turbot for just shy of $200 if you’re feeling spendy. And, just as you might at a steakhouse, you can get a chive-topped twice-baked potato on the side; this one is finished on the grill and served over a sauce slicked with smoked bone marrow. — Alan Sytsma 

Little Pine (Chinatown)
Flushing’s Fu Run was my first introduction to Dongbei cuisine as well as my favorite restaurant for many years — until it closed in 2020. As of this spring, Little Pine has stepped in to fill the void on the Lower East Side with Northeastern-style braised pork bones and Mongolian cumin lamb. On a warm, steamy day, it was nice to start with some (complimentary) cucumber-infused water and a couple of cold dishes. Rainbow glass-noodle salad starts with chewy, pappardelle-wide noodles and salty shredded pork surrounded by a ring of shredded vegetables and tofu skin tossed in a dark sesame dressing that stands up to it all. Tiger salad resembles little more than a bowl of peanut-topped cilantro leaves and scallions and is a must-order dish, coated with another perfectly calibrated dressing and packing incognito heat from shredded green pepper. I kept returning for a bite between grilled lamb skewers and crisp-battered slivers of sweet-and-sour pork with a vinegar-heavy glaze that made my eyes water. — Tammie Teclemariam