Rabbit’s more famous Harlem neighbors—Sylvia’s and Red Rooster—are packed every night with tourists and locals eating fried chicken and waffles. But only folks who live around the 120s/130s at Lenox know about the old-school made-to-order fish sandwiches or the crisp-skinned chicken wings at this low-key sidewalk kitchen. In the summer, you might even find chef Devin (a.k.a. Rabbit) outside, frying those dishes up until 5am.
If it were just about the wings, Rabbit’s would be a very useful spot to know about in a hungry pinch. But this stainless steel set-up, gleaming under a string of bulbs on an empty lot on a brownstone street, is also just one of the most charming places to eat in Harlem. Been too long since you heard the entirety of Ron Ayers’ “Poo Poo La La”? That song, or something equally as sway-able, drifts over the sounds of the sizzling fryer, as dank smoke from a nearby stoop mingles with an apple cinnamon-scented candle on the counter. Across the street, neighborhood cats slink around a row of historic, porch-fronted houses.
Because of Rabbit’s catering gigs, the hours and menu can be a little unpredictable (check day-of Instagram stories before visiting), but the fish sandwich is a reliably available and incredibly satisfying thing to eat, especially alongside some BYO wine. It’s also a great deal, at two for $12. Otherwise, go for the wings with an array of little sauce containers. And make sure to ask Rabbit about the story behind the name of the place, or the sandwiches his grandma used to make, which inspired the one you’re eating.
Food Rundown
Old-School Fish Sandwich
Sometimes it’s catfish, but usually it’s strips of whiting with a seasoned crust, scrunched between slices of white bread. Make ample use of the tartar sauce to add creamy tanginess to the ultimate soft-yet-crunchy steaming hot bite.
photo credit: Alex Staniloff
Wings
From lemon pepper to firecracker, you get a few kinds of wings here. We especially like the teriyaki-ish Japanese wings, but whatever you get, expect juicy meat, crisp skin, and just the right amount of sauce. On some days, you can get a combo with two sides, like some truffle oil-doused mac and cheese, or collard greens.
photo credit: Sonal Shah
