Houseman in Soho is known for its burger, but it’s not uncommon for the owner to throw some seafood on the menu that he caught that morning out on Long Island. Zoli, the team’s follow-up located within the Amants Art Campus in East Williamsburg, goes even deeper on fish. The seafood-centric menu isn’t as dramatic as its surroundings—at the center of the dining room, there’s an art installation of three large fish tanks. But if you want to impress someone with fancy fish in that warehouse-heavy sliver of land between Williamsburg and Bushwick that they probably haven’t been to since their last great bender, Zoli is a good choice.
Come on the weekend when the rooftop bar is open—start with a visit to the galleries followed by a sunset cocktail, and then head downstairs for dinner, where you might be seated next to some retired DJs who order the bottle and pop out for a cigarette every now and again. In lower Manhattan, nobody would bat an eye at a Zoli opening. But in Bushwick, there’s nothing quite like it. The impressively long, fish-heavy menu changes frequently, but go hard on the smallest plates, which might include plump, smoky marinated mussels, or, when they’re in season, sliced plums layered with slabs of tuna, both so beautifully pink it’s hard to tell the difference until you eat them.
photo credit: Canal House
photo credit: Willa Moore
photo credit: Willa Moore
photo credit: Willa Moore
photo credit: Willa Moore
photo credit: Willa Moore
Food Rundown
Marinated Mussels
Order a side of bread to go with these marinated mussels for best results, so you can soak up every last drop of pickle-y oil.
Celery, Lovage, Blue Cheese, Croutons
How much you love this salad will depend on how much you love celery and how okay you feel with spending $21 on a tiny salad. If you’re alright with both those things, you’ll love this crunchy masterpiece, with sharp, funky blue cheese and olive oil-soaked croutons.
Tuna Crudo, Plums, Bird’s Eye Chili
The bird’s eye chili is a little missing, but the fresh tuna and summer-sweet plums, topped with lemon zest, flaky salt, and olive oil, make this a major standout.
Soft-Shell Crab Sandwich
When soft-shells are in season, Zoli’s going to have them as a special. That’s just how it works here. These slider-sized buns are dwarfed by half of a soft-shell crab, fried like tempura and slick with an herby mayo.
Littlenecks, Chili, Coconut, Holy Basil
Like tom kha, but with less broth and just-cooked littlenecks instead. A very lovely, very dainty plate that will make you crave a bowl of tom kha.
Butterfield Black Sea Bass, Pil Pil
The larger plates on the menu are mostly well-executed versions of crowd-pleasing favorites, like a roast chicken, or this slab of sea bass with a crispy skin. If you’re here with a group and looking to fill the table, you could order a few. If not, stick to a parade of smaller things.
French Fries, Rouille
The fish place has surprisingly great french fries—thick, crisp and golden brown, with a custardy inside and a side of garlicky rouille.
